Here there will be some articles about models I have built, describing in detail how they were made so that other modellers can try something similar. As well as other advice about how to go about particular railway modelling tasks. These features represent only the author's own experiences and I am fully aware there are almost certainly other ways of achieving the same results, and situations in which the methods proposed here are ineffective. Except where indicated, they are not intended as sets of instructions so much as a list of recommended things to try.
How to get good running in 16.5mm gauge narrow gauge scales (e.g.; 0-16.5,Gn15)
Or how I get it, anyway.
Measures should begin before the railway in question is built. Design the layout with the broadest curves you can fit in, unless you are modelling a prototype famous for sharp curves and want to be authentic. Take care in the design of the baseboards as well as what will go on them. Choose a design and material which is unlikely to want to go out of shape. Chunkier frames generally mean better warp resistance. Do not be tempted to use cheap materials, chipboard and hardboard in particular are bad ideas.
Lay the track with as much precision as possible. Treat tracklaying as a precision task like computer maintenance or performing an operation. Be sure you are sat comfortably and the work area is well lit, secured against slips, and at just the right working height (which you must find for yourself). It is amazing what a difference this makes.
Only use fishplates with just the right fit, they should neither slide on with a prod of the finger, nor need to be pushed like a fire door. Ensure rail ends are clean before joining rails. Pre-bend the rail for all but the broadest of curves. Remember to put a pin in the middle of each point to prevent it curving upwards (Some brands have a particular proclivity to curve). If using cork matting, make sure it is a fine grade, the coarser grades have tiny fluctuations in thickness which have surprisingly major effects on the smoothness of the track. Test the track every time you add a new piece, and if there are any problems, do not add more track there until the problem is resolved and stays that way for several tests. Don't use points that rely on fishplates to hold and pivot the blades.
The electronics to be used are important too. Some people advocate running a feed to every rail or soldering the fishplates. I have not done either and had no problems. However, this may be due to the fact that my layouts have always had fairly short electrical sections with few rail joints. When an electrical section is very long or has many rail joints, then the tiny voltage drops at each unsoldered rail joint, and the electrical resistance of the rail itself, will cause a cumulative voltage drop over many feet of track, that may be enough to create a significant voltage drop affecting the running of trains. Soldering the fishplates or adding more feeds alleviates this by reducing the resistance, which reduces the voltage drop.
Similarly, the wiring will have electrical resistance. The longer a feed wire needs to be, the larger the diameter you should use to prevent voltage drop.
Many suggest rewiring Peco live frog points so that they are switched by an external switch rather than the inbuilt switching mechanism. I myself have not done this and in fact rarely had any problems with relying on the sides of the blades and stock rails for contact. However, if you wish to do this, it is vital to keep the contact surfaces on the blades and stock rails as clean as possible. Clean them at the same time as, by the same means as, the rail heads.
I always use a feedback controller whenever loco electronics allow as this greatly improves running over imperfect track by compensating for the reduced contact surface with increased current through the remaining contact surface.
But what if you have already got a poorly running layout? Well, the next two steps should still bring about much improvement.
I assume readers will think it logical that as well as the layout it runs on, the performance of the stock will be greatly affected by aspects of the stock itself.
Obviously, more wheels means better pickup. This presents particular problems for narrow gaugers as though there were multitudes of many-wheeled monsters around, most NG machines, and certainly most models, had no more than 4 to 6 or possibly 8 wheels. Therefore the number of pickup points is not sufficient to ensure reliable running by good pickup alone. Other aspects of the loco mechanisms used become more important. If possible, choose mechanisms that were designed from the outset to pick up on only the number of wheels the model will have. They are more likely to be reliable than mechanisms designed to be part of a larger locomotive. Motor bogies are a good example of this. Though commonly used to drive small NG locos, they need careful use because they are designed to be assisted by more pickups on a second bogie and will not run as well without them. However, a chassis built for a 4-wheeled model will be designed to get all its power from the limited number of available contact points, and so may have compensated axles, a flywheel, and inbuilt weights.
Maintenance matters. The abrasive cleaning block is a popular means of rail cleaning but has all kinds of problems. Sometimes they seem to make dirt rather than remove it. I have found that a most effective means of removing the continual build-up of dirt is to wipe it with one of those cloths sold for cleaning glasses. When a more thorough cleaning is required, I use a liquid cleaner. There are all kinds of proprietary track fluids but I use methylated spirit. This can of course be quite dangerous. Perform the cleaning in a well-ventilated room with the windows open. Apply the spirit in small quantities using a cloth-on-a-stick, a swab or a sponge brush. Do not try to pour the contents of the bottle onto the applicator, decant a little into a heavy vessel with high sides and replace the bottle lid immediately. Keep the vessel out of the way and approach it with caution. Do not soak the applicator, just wet the end and dip it lightly in the vessel at frequent intervals. Make sure the applicator only touches the rail heads. After cleaning, vacate the room and keep it ventilated for at least an hour.
Measures should begin before the railway in question is built. Design the layout with the broadest curves you can fit in, unless you are modelling a prototype famous for sharp curves and want to be authentic. Take care in the design of the baseboards as well as what will go on them. Choose a design and material which is unlikely to want to go out of shape. Chunkier frames generally mean better warp resistance. Do not be tempted to use cheap materials, chipboard and hardboard in particular are bad ideas.
Lay the track with as much precision as possible. Treat tracklaying as a precision task like computer maintenance or performing an operation. Be sure you are sat comfortably and the work area is well lit, secured against slips, and at just the right working height (which you must find for yourself). It is amazing what a difference this makes.
Only use fishplates with just the right fit, they should neither slide on with a prod of the finger, nor need to be pushed like a fire door. Ensure rail ends are clean before joining rails. Pre-bend the rail for all but the broadest of curves. Remember to put a pin in the middle of each point to prevent it curving upwards (Some brands have a particular proclivity to curve). If using cork matting, make sure it is a fine grade, the coarser grades have tiny fluctuations in thickness which have surprisingly major effects on the smoothness of the track. Test the track every time you add a new piece, and if there are any problems, do not add more track there until the problem is resolved and stays that way for several tests. Don't use points that rely on fishplates to hold and pivot the blades.
The electronics to be used are important too. Some people advocate running a feed to every rail or soldering the fishplates. I have not done either and had no problems. However, this may be due to the fact that my layouts have always had fairly short electrical sections with few rail joints. When an electrical section is very long or has many rail joints, then the tiny voltage drops at each unsoldered rail joint, and the electrical resistance of the rail itself, will cause a cumulative voltage drop over many feet of track, that may be enough to create a significant voltage drop affecting the running of trains. Soldering the fishplates or adding more feeds alleviates this by reducing the resistance, which reduces the voltage drop.
Similarly, the wiring will have electrical resistance. The longer a feed wire needs to be, the larger the diameter you should use to prevent voltage drop.
Many suggest rewiring Peco live frog points so that they are switched by an external switch rather than the inbuilt switching mechanism. I myself have not done this and in fact rarely had any problems with relying on the sides of the blades and stock rails for contact. However, if you wish to do this, it is vital to keep the contact surfaces on the blades and stock rails as clean as possible. Clean them at the same time as, by the same means as, the rail heads.
I always use a feedback controller whenever loco electronics allow as this greatly improves running over imperfect track by compensating for the reduced contact surface with increased current through the remaining contact surface.
But what if you have already got a poorly running layout? Well, the next two steps should still bring about much improvement.
I assume readers will think it logical that as well as the layout it runs on, the performance of the stock will be greatly affected by aspects of the stock itself.
Obviously, more wheels means better pickup. This presents particular problems for narrow gaugers as though there were multitudes of many-wheeled monsters around, most NG machines, and certainly most models, had no more than 4 to 6 or possibly 8 wheels. Therefore the number of pickup points is not sufficient to ensure reliable running by good pickup alone. Other aspects of the loco mechanisms used become more important. If possible, choose mechanisms that were designed from the outset to pick up on only the number of wheels the model will have. They are more likely to be reliable than mechanisms designed to be part of a larger locomotive. Motor bogies are a good example of this. Though commonly used to drive small NG locos, they need careful use because they are designed to be assisted by more pickups on a second bogie and will not run as well without them. However, a chassis built for a 4-wheeled model will be designed to get all its power from the limited number of available contact points, and so may have compensated axles, a flywheel, and inbuilt weights.
Maintenance matters. The abrasive cleaning block is a popular means of rail cleaning but has all kinds of problems. Sometimes they seem to make dirt rather than remove it. I have found that a most effective means of removing the continual build-up of dirt is to wipe it with one of those cloths sold for cleaning glasses. When a more thorough cleaning is required, I use a liquid cleaner. There are all kinds of proprietary track fluids but I use methylated spirit. This can of course be quite dangerous. Perform the cleaning in a well-ventilated room with the windows open. Apply the spirit in small quantities using a cloth-on-a-stick, a swab or a sponge brush. Do not try to pour the contents of the bottle onto the applicator, decant a little into a heavy vessel with high sides and replace the bottle lid immediately. Keep the vessel out of the way and approach it with caution. Do not soak the applicator, just wet the end and dip it lightly in the vessel at frequent intervals. Make sure the applicator only touches the rail heads. After cleaning, vacate the room and keep it ventilated for at least an hour.